Fishing can be defined as the art or sport of catching fish.  There are no givens in fishing or it would be called “catching”. Every day poses new challenges.  It is up to us to figure out the puzzle.  Once the pieces are all in the right spot the fish will come.  Fish need security, comfort and food find the right combination and you will find the fish.

Lakes will have a small amount of productive water and a large amount of unproductive water.  Staying in the former will increase our success.   We are looking for the productive areas where fish are feeding.  This is usually along the banks or in the top 6-10’ of water anywhere on the lake.  The center of the lake productive when there is some kind of insect activity.  Fish can often be found holding on the bottom.  These are not actively feeding fish.  They can be caught but you will have better success seeking out active fish.

A depth finder is a great way to locate bottom structure and many show individual fish and mark their depth.  A good rule of thumb to use if you do not have a depth finder is to troll parallel with the bank so you can see the bottom on one side of you boat and not at the other.  Often times this is the perfect spot.  It is called the littoral zone and is usually located in 6-10’ of water.  Feeding fish will be found on the shallower side so focus your presentation there.

Fish are always wary of predators: birds, bigger fish and oafish anglers.  Stealth is important.  They will seek shelter in order to survive.  It is rare to find fish hanging out in clear shallow water unless they are actively feeding.  They are exposed, their silhouette is visible to birds and anglers.  Being out in the open they have no where to seek shelter if attacked by larger fish.  Choppy water and weed beds will give them more security than calm water.  They are no longer as visible from above the water.

Downed trees, rock piles and stumps all offer protection to the fish.  They can hang out in a safe spot and ambush prey as they see it.   Some of these features are easily visible with the naked eye, some you will need a depth finder to see.  Polarized glasses are a huge benefit in searching for fish.  They eliminate the surface glare and let you see into the water.  An Sup gives a great vantage point for sight fishing.

Reservoirs are man made lakes usually with a dam at one end and an inlet on the other.  They are typically deep in the middle and follow the contour of the banks.  You can envision how the bottom will be by mentally extending the shoreline into the water.  Look for points and coves, downed trees or rocks piles.  These will usually hold fish.  The inlet or any other water source or drainage are good spots to fish, especially in warm water.  Trout need more oxygen in the water as it warms.  Underground seeps or springs also bring cooler oxygenated water into the lake.  A depth finder can be useful in outlining the old stream bed in a reservoir.  This will naturally hold fish.

If the lake has been recently stocked the fish will congregate around the access area, usually a boat ramp.  Think where the truck to stock them can get to the lake and the fish will hang around that area for a while until they figure things out and move to deeper and more sheltered water.  In a situation like this they often defy the shelter rule and will be out in the open.

Food is essential for survival.  Fish need to get more energy from the food they consume than they expend in finding it.  To accomplish this they need to be in a food rich environment.  The main diet of a trout is bugs and smaller fish.  Bugs have a lifespan that brings them from a nymph state on or near the bottom to an emerging state on the surface.  Trout feeding on the surface or easy to spot.  They will make rings in the water if they are feeding on surface bugs or a bulge in the water if they are feeding right under the surface.

Trolling is a great method for finding fish.  Once you hooked one then casting is effective for catching even more.  Stop in the area that the fish was hooked and start a methodical casting pattern in search of fish.  Start closer towards you and move out in a fan pattern.

After exhausting an area start trolling again until the next hit.  Rinse and repeat.

Check out our “Quick Start Guide to Trout” a free pocket size resource

Carlisle Taboo Stand Up Paddle

I’ve been looking into making a cut off paddle as a spare and for use when I fish.  I wanted a 1 hand paddle to steer and get me out of tight quarters when fishing.  I was actually going to make one until I saw this paddle.  It seemed like the answer, especially because it will convert to a 2 blade kayak style paddle.  

The paddle comes with a blade with a long handle that has two separate length handles for use as a SUP.  Great that it has 2 handles for kids and adults.  It then has a separate blade with a short handle.  The pieces fit together with a snap lock connection.

I test drove the paddle yesterday on Rollins Lake in Grass Valley, Ca.  I paddled about 5 miles in 4 hours, going at a pretty slow pace because I was fishing.  The paddle moved along ok, but was a little heavy.  I compared it to my SUP ATX paddle which I normally use and the weight felt about the same.  It also has a flatter tapered blade.  Overall the paddle was fine and having the small blade for a spare was reassurring.

Being early January I didn’t feel like sitting down and trying it kayak style and getting my butt wet.

I would definetly take this along whenever wind could be an issue.  My daughter and I have paddle Elkhorn Slough in Monterey a couple of times and had a hard time getting back due to the wind.  This would have been perfect in those conditions.

Overall it is well made, if a little heavy.  I would always take it if wind could be an issue.

Here is a link to buy it through Amazon:

It is important to observe the external factors when fly fishing.  Weather, water clarity and temperature are some of things to watch.   Reading water temperature is important for fishing success especially when there are no active hatches.  This article will give you a primer on how to use this information.

Sticking your finger in the water is not going to help much unless you have calibrated skin.  The kind of thermometer is not that important.  I use a digital because it is quick to register the temperature and lets you know when it is finished.  The other upside of a digital thermometer is that it is easy to read in all light and especially with polarized glasses.  A standard thermometer is good as well – and no batteries.

Once you have recorded the temperature you can determine your fishing strategy.  You will know what time of day is best to fish (probably more use the next outing), weather to fish the shade or sun, what type of fly to use and how to fish it.  Trout react and adjust their metabolism to the temperature of the water they are in.  The extremes on either end and they will be slow moving.  As the temperature settles toward 60 degrees the fish are the most active. There are 5 Ranges that I will refer to by number.

1. Less than 50 degrees
2. 50-55 degrees
3. 55-65 degrees
4. 65-70 degrees
5. Greater than 7- degrees

Weather and sun will influence water temperature during the day.  A cold stream on a warm sunny day will become warmer itself as the day wears on.  A good rule of thumb is that if you are comfortable the fish are comfortable.  Fish zone 1 & 2 from mid morning once the sun is up and on the water to mid afternoon when it is past its apex.  Zone 3 can be fished all day.  Zones 4 & 5 will fish better early.

Zone 1 & 2 fish have a slow metabolism.  They will not feed agressivly.  The colder the slower.  Start with nymphs dead drifted on the bottom and streamers moved slowly and increase speed as the temperature rises to 55.  Once you get into the zone 3 range of 55-65 you are in the most active zone.  This is typically fished in the normal style with dry flies, nymphs and streamers fished at a faster pace.  As the water warms into zones 4 & 5 the fish are slowing down again.  As the temperature rises they will seek more oxigenated water in the form of springs, shade or tributaries.  They will be in moving water or deep pools.  Decrease the size of your flies and look for terrestials.

This is a page from or Pocket Guide to Fy Fishing for Trout.  It includes all the information above in an easy to follow chart.  Use it on the water and watch your catch rate increase.

This is all part of thinking like a fish. Trout need to seek their comfort zone for optimal survival.

Check out our introductory course.

Here is my course on the lake.  Sorry there are no fish pictures – because I got skunked.  Been a long time since I had the old 0.  Mileage was right at 5 with average speed about 1.4 MPH.  I was out for about 4 hours.  Water temp on the surface was 48 degrees.

The water clarity was bad – maybe 5′ – maybe less.  I think I had everything else dialed in, but because of the calm water and sun, I went with a mixed bag of stuff.  I changed up every 30 minutes or so, but nothing was working for me.  I probably should have put out a dodger setup and made some noise, hoping the vibration would bring the fish in.  The vibration of the dodger and a bright lure would have helped.

It was a great paddle.  The lake level was about 10′ low, but last time it was 50′.  I paddled into Greenhorn Creek where last time it was a sandbar.

I got a little (ok, more than a little) discouraged when I pulled up to the Greenhorn Campground ramp and saw a group of folks with some kids pulling in fish right and left.  They caught 4 or 5 in minutes.  After serious reflection of why I suck so bad, I realized that the low visibility was helping the power bait guys on shore and hurting me trolling.  Lesson learned, but I love watching kids catch fish so it was all worth it.

Here is a link to another – more positive, but reinforces my power bait theory from a few days ago:

It is important to observe the external factors when fly fishing.  Weather, water clarity and temperature are some of the important factors.  Reading water temperature is important for fishing success especially when there are no active hatches.  This article will give you a primer on how to use this information.

The kind of thermometer is not that important.  I use a digital because it is quick to register the temperature and lets you know when it is finished.  The other upside of a digital thermometer is that it is easy to read in all light and especially with polarized glasses.  A standard thermometer is good as well – and no batteries.

Once you have recorded the temperature you can determine your fishing strategy.  You will know what time of day is best to fish (probably more use the next outing), what type of fly to use and how to fish it.  Trout react and adjust their metabolism to the temperature of the water they are in.  The extremes on either end and they will be slow moving.  As the temperature settles toward 60 degrees the fish are the most active. There are 5 Ranges that I will refer to by number.

1. Less than 50 degrees
2. 50-55 degrees
3. 55-65 degrees
4. 65-70 degrees
5. Greater than 7- degrees

Weather and sun will influence water temperature during the day.  A cold stream on a warm sunny day will become warmer itself as the day wears on.  A good rule of thumb is that if you are comfortable the fish are comfortable.  Fish zone 1 & 2 from mid morning once the sun is up and on the water to mid afternoon when it is past its apex.  Zone 3 can be fished all day.  Zones 4 & 5 will fish better early.

Zone 1 & 2 fish have a slow metabolism.  They will not feed agressivly.  The colder the slower.  Start with nymphs dead drifted on the bottom and streamers moved slowly and increase speed as the temperature rises to 55.  Once you get into the zone 3 range of 55-65 you are in the most active zone.  This is typically fished in the normal style with dry flies, nymphs and streamers fished at a faster pace.  As the water warms into zones 4 & 5 the fish are slowing down again.  As the temperature rises they will seek more oxigenated water in the form of springs, shade or tributaries.  They will be in moving water or deep pools.  Decrease the size of your flies and look for terrestials.

This is all part of thinking like a fish. Trout need to seek their comfort zone for optimal survival.  http://www.fishsniffer.com/trout-board/95013-rollins-lake-01-27-2012-a.html

If you have any ideas, information or experience I would appreciate a comment – Thanks.

A “Quick Start” guide when you get to the stream.

When you unpack a new electronic device it comes with a “start here” guide because most folks don’t read manuals until they are in trouble.  Same goes for fly fishing, except most folks read the books and watch the videos but can’t remember what they read or saw when they get to the river.

I want to present to you a “start here” guide to fly fishing.  I trust you can get your waders and boots on by yourself, so I’ll leave that alone.  I’ll start at the part where you’re dressed.

It’s always a good idea to get some local beta before you go out.  Fly shops, newspaper columns and radio shows offer great current advise.  I’d say they can give you 80%.  The other 20% encompasses the changing conditions that are happening NOW.  Without this local knowledge you are starting from scratch.

I’ll have my bag or vest packed with whatever I may need for dry, wet nymph and streamer fishing.  I carry two reels that fit in the same housing.  One will have a floating line, the other an intermediate sink line.  The only thing that I’ll put together at the car is the pole.  That leaves me open to evaluate conditions at the water and setup for optimum success.  If I set up the line, leader and fly at the car, I will use them at the stream – regardless of what I see. Call it stubborn or lazy, it’s just human nature.

Fly fishing is a great way to connect with nature.  This is where we are going to start. By observing condtions.  We need to find what the fish are eating, how they are behaving and how to approach them.  All three factors will be combined into our set up and presentation.

To find what the fish are eating we need to look above, on and in the water.  Look for birds and visible hatches first.  A lot of action there will indicate good dry fly action.  Next get down low to the water and see if there are bugs floating or emerging.

Look for the bulges and ripples from feeding trout.  A bulge will indicate trout feeding right below the surface.  Ripples indicate the fish is eating on the surface.  The former will be good for wet flies or emergers, the later for dries.  If no action is found above or on the water the trout are feeding below the water.  Investigate under rocks and see what crawls out.  An aquarium net is great for seeing what is in the surface film or below.  You now have an idea what and where the fish are eating.

Is the water clear or stained?  Clear water will need a stealthy approach and long thin leader (6x).  Off color water is more forgiving.  Choose your leader accordingly.

You can set up your reel and leader now.  Use floating line, lighter and longer leaders for dry flies.  Use floating line and medium length and thick leader for wets. Tie on the fly that resembles what you found.  Sometimes it is that easy – and you can thank the patron saint of fly fishing – St Orvis.

If there is no evidence of any activity from trout or bugs, and there are plenty of days like this, try streamers of nymphs.  I use the intermediate sink line and a 7.5′ leader for streamers.  This gets them down in the water column.  Nymphs are generally fished floating line, a split shot weight above the fly and a strike indicator.

Now look at the water.  Can you see the current?  It should be visible by a surface film to the side or bubbles.

Following this procedure will get you better organized and increase your success rate.

Here is a page from our Pocket Guide to Fly Fishing

For more information and to purchase StreamCharts our Pocket guide to fly fishing  click here.

Or sign up for our free introductory course 

Know the bugs and tie on the best fly

Success in Fly fishing has a lot to do with learning how to identify the external factors.  Weather, water flow, clarity and season are all examples of external things that will effect fishing.  Beginning Fly Fisherman have a hard time identifying the food chain that fish are eating.  

Find the bugs and you will know what the fish are eating.  Before you start casting it is a good idea to scout out the area.  Look under rocks and in bushes for clues as to what kind of bugs are around.  An aquarium net is a good tool to skin the water after kicking over a rock.  You can pick up a lot of the smaller bugs that way.  Getting down low on the water will tell you if there are any small bugs emerging or hatching.

But what are the?  Mayflies, Caddis flies and Stoneflies are the main sources of food on a trout stream.  They begin life on the bottom as larvae, puppa and nymphs.  They will emerge as the hatch, float for a time and fly away.  By finding the bugs you will know what the food source is as well as the stage, size and color.  Then you can match it to your fly box and tie on the best choice.

  

Mayfly Nymph

Look at the picture on the left of a mayfly nymph. The identifying characteristics are the 3 tails the 4 legs. Stoneflies have the opposite with 2 tails and 6 legs.  Confused yet?

Here is a page from our Pocket Guide to Fly Fishing

This one page will help you identify the bugs you find in both nymph and adult form.

Once you know what you’ve got the next stage is to pick a fly that will match.  Not all the bugs and flies look alike so it helps to know what the flies are as well.  StreamCharts can help with this as well. With 48 full color and labeled picture of flies, you can pick the one best suited.

When selecting your fly it is good practice to go a little smaller.  Trout will usually go for a smaller version of what they are eating rather than a larger one.  Trout can only see the bottom of the fly.  You are looking at the tops in your box.  Make sure to turn the fly over before selecting.

Following this procedure will result in a better success rate than just randomly selecting a fly.  The food chain is constantly changing, so it is a good idea to check the stream regularly.

For more information and to purchase StreamCharts our Pocket guide to fly fishing click here.

You can sign up for a free introductory course 

]]> http://www.thefishinggeek.com/2012/01/23/bugs-on-the-stream/feed/ 0 http://www.thefishinggeek.com/2012/01/18/trolling-tips-for-depth/ http://www.thefishinggeek.com/2012/01/18/trolling-tips-for-depth/#comments Wed, 18 Jan 2012 20:57:54 +0000 admin http://www.thefishinggeek.com/?p=549 Find the Best Depth for Trolling

Trolling lakes at the right depth will get you better results

One of the hardest decisions when you get on the water is how deep to fish.  Trolling gives you the option of getting your lure or fly to the depth the fish are most comfortable in.  If you’ve ever browsed a fishing store you know there is a multitude of choices for trout lures and trolling accessories.  Hard baits, soft baits, spinners, rooster tails, hoochies, dodgers, spinners, flashers – the list is endless as are the choices and combinations.  Trolling for trout can be really easy – or really hard.  It is what you make of it.   There are many variables, so trial and error is part of the process.  Every day is different.  Factors such as angle of the sun change with the season and in combination with wind, weather and season, the possibilities are endless. If something is not working, don’t stick with it – change it up.  It is easy to get in a lazy mindset and just keep dragging the same setup all day.  I give 30 minutes max.  If it doesn’t work by then, change one of the variables.

The main factors in determining the most effective setup for the day are: water temperature, weather and water clarity.  These external conditions will dictate depth, size, speed and color of your presentation.  Fish will adapt external conditions for their comfort and survival.  You generally won’t have much luck surface trolling on a calm, hot day with water temps above 60 degrees.  Trout like a little chop on the water to protect them from predators and they are not comfortable in warm water.  On a day like this they will be down deeper.  When the water ripples or has small waves they are more comfortable moving towards the surface – but it depends on temperature.

Determine depth first.  Water temperature is the major factors in selecting depth, although a fish finder can be handy as well.  Depth Finders often show the surface temperature which will vary greatly during the day based on weather conditions.  A better method is to take a thermometer and attach it to a line with intervals marked off at 5’ intervals.  It will take a few minutes, but is well worth dropping down at 5’ increments until you find the right zone.

Ideal water temperature for trout is 55-65 degrees.  Under 55 degrees and over 65 degrees the trout become lethargic.  If you can find the depth that is in the 55-65 degree zone that is where to start fishing.

There are several ways to get deep.  A downrigger is a great option, but there are less expensive ways to get there.  Jet Divers, Planers and trolling weights all work.  I prefer the “single line” system rather than the weight on the a dropper off a 3 way swivel.  The 3 way will get tangled and twist while trolling.  Always use a swivel at every connection. Keep it simple.

Trolling speed effects the depth of your lure.  Downriggers will minimize this, but as speed increases the lure will be pulled further behind the boat raising it in the  water column.  Jet Divers are rated at 100’ of paid out line at a speed of 1.5 – 2.5 mph.  Trolling weight depth varies with speed, line out and weight.  I like to work with 100’ of line out.  At 1.5mph and 100’ of line a 1 oz weight will run 17’ deep; 2 oz will run 25’ deep and a 6oz weight will run 60’ deep.

• Find the depth of the optimum water temperature (55-65)
• Work with speed, line paid out and weight to get the lure there.

Two things to do will put more fish in your boat.

Check out our “Quick Start Guide to Trout” a free pocket sized reference

Took the afternoon and paddled Englebright lake. Took my SUP out.  Sick – shorts and flip flops in January.  Temps was probably close to 70 with a light breeze.  I just got these Hoochies from Crystal Basin Tackle after getting a tip from someone last week.

Here is the track I followed from my Garmin GPS.  I averaged about 2mph and got the fish about 1.7 mph.  It showed as a 3.85 mile paddle in 2:38.

The result was 2 planter size trout.  The hoochies are shown by the fish they caught.

There were several other boats out.  I saw a couple of catches along the way.

Here is a link to the product manual. http://www.luhrjensen.com/downloads/tech-sheets/531JetDiver.pdf 

I ran them straight out of the box, but am going to try the slider method with 2 baits next.  I just can’t stop tweaking things.  Part of being a geek I guess.

Want to try them: